Why Are My Monstera Leaves Turning Yellow? (7 Causes & Fixes)

The most common reason monstera leaves turn yellow is overwatering — but it's only one of seven realistic culprits, and each one calls for a different fix. The fastest way to narrow it down is to read the pattern: which leaves are yellowing, how quickly, and what other symptoms come with it. Match your plant to the descriptions below, then apply the fix for that specific cause.

1. Overwatering (the most common cause)

What it looks like: yellowing that starts on the lower, older leaves, often paired with brown mushy spots, soil that stays damp for days, or a musty smell from the pot. Monstera roots need oxygen; soggy soil suffocates them, and yellow leaves are the first warning sign of root rot.

The fix: confirm the pot has a drainage hole, and let the top two inches of soil dry out before watering again. If the soil stays wet for more than a week, slide the plant out and check the roots — healthy roots are firm and pale, rotten ones are brown and mushy. Trim away any rot with clean scissors and repot into a chunky, fast-draining aroid mix.

2. Underwatering

Underwatered monsteras show yellow leaves with dry, crispy brown edges, plus curling, drooping, and soil pulling away from the sides of the pot. Water thoroughly until it runs from the drainage hole — light splashes only wet the surface — then settle into a rhythm of watering whenever the top two inches of soil feel dry.

3. Wrong light

Monsteras want bright, indirect light. In a dim corner, the plant can't support all of its foliage, so it sacrifices older leaves, which yellow and drop. Too much direct sun does the opposite kind of damage: bleached, yellow-white scorch patches on the side facing the window. Aim for a spot near a bright window where sun never hits the leaves directly for long, or soften it with a sheer curtain.

4. Nutrient deficiency

If your monstera hasn't been fed in a year or more, older leaves may fade to a uniform pale yellow while new growth stays green. Nitrogen is a mobile nutrient, so the plant strips it from old leaves to build new ones. Feed with a balanced liquid fertilizer at half strength about once a month through spring and summer, and skip feeding in winter when growth slows.

5. Root shock

Repotting, moving the plant to a new spot, a cold draft, or a sudden temperature swing can all trigger transplant or root shock — typically one or two yellowed leaves within a few weeks of the change. It usually resolves on its own. Keep conditions stable, resist the urge to compensate with extra water or fertilizer, and judge recovery by the new growth rather than the leaf you lost.

6. Pests

Spider mites leave a fine yellow stippling across leaves, sometimes with delicate webbing underneath; thrips cause silvery, patchy discoloration that yellows over time. Check the undersides of the leaves closely. If you find pests, wipe the foliage clean and treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil, repeating weekly until no new damage appears.

7. Natural leaf aging

Monsteras routinely retire their oldest leaves. If a single low, old leaf slowly yellows and browns every few months while the rest of the plant keeps growing happily, that's normal aging, not a problem. Simply cut it off near the stem once it has mostly yellowed.

Will yellow leaves turn green again?

Almost never. Once a leaf has yellowed significantly, the chlorophyll is gone and that leaf won't recover — the goal is to stop the spread, not save the leaf. Prune fully yellow leaves with clean shears so the plant redirects energy to healthy growth, fix the underlying cause, and measure success by the next leaves your monstera unfurls: they should emerge green, firm, and full-sized.

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